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RE: Winterizing motorhome
Your coach low point drain valves should drain the pressure pipes. If you don't have a separate drain for your hot water line, your hot water tank drain plug should accomplish this. On the drain side, some P-traps have a removable plug to drain the trap and clean out any debris, but it is doubtful that you have one due to accessibility. So just pour in your usual amount of RV anti-freeze for this trap.
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yudamann
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10/09/08 07:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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portable waste tanks
I am thinking of purchasing one of these portable waste tanks for use when dry camping so that I don't have to move the motor home to dump waste. there are 2 major brands out there, Thetford and Tote-Alongs by Barker. I would appreciate feed back on pros and cons of each from those who use these expensive little tanks.
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yudamann
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10/09/08 07:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV Space Saver Table
Please share your secret table photo.
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yudamann
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08/28/08 02:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Winterize in Arizona?
I plan on storing my motor home in the area east of Scottsdale, around Fountain Hills AZ area. From weather history of the area I see that the temperatures can get below freezing in December & January, but normally climb toward 60F during the days. Does anyone know if this requires winterizing of RV for these 2 months?
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yudamann
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08/24/08 06:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Network channels on Direct TV
"Did you get to keep your actual locals on that receiver they set up for DNS? "
For DirecTV, you cannot get locals if you are more than about 300 miles from your area. Locals are beamed like a spotlight to a location, not like a floodlight or country-wide reception.
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yudamann
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08/21/08 01:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: power surge protection
Suggest that you do a search on this forum for this topic. There is LOTS of info on this.
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yudamann
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08/14/08 01:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: drain plug replacement
I am a plumbing engineer and once owned an RV with an Atwood water heater, a good product I might add. But I had one of the nylon plugs blow out completely one night whilst camping, a very attention grabbing sound. Had we not been in the MH when it occurred, it would have quickly exhausted our fresh water tank supply and done some damage to the gas heater trying to make hot water with no water present. I can find no plumbing code that even mentions nylon as a pressure containing material. I replaced my nylon plug with a brass 1/2" plug and used several wraps of teflon tape. This is the same arrangement as the bronze, which is brass and tin copper alloy, pressure/temperature valve installed on my tank initially by Atwood. I would never install a replacement nylon plug in a pressure tank.
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yudamann
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08/14/08 06:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: non stop dripping out of showerhead
Are you sure that this is not the built in weep hole that is leaking? A lot of shower heads used in RV's have hose end valves at the shower head end to allow the use of the shipboard shower technique where the user turns the water on long enough to get the body wet, turns it off to lather, and turns it back on to rinse. Using the hose end valve allows one to not disturb the hot and cold water mixing valve setting so that when the water is turned on again it is of the same temperature setting as it was before turning off the hose end valve. The rubber or plastic flex hoses on showers are not rated for full line pressure that the hose would experience if the mixing valve is left on and the hose end valve is closed. So there is a small diameter weep hole in the shower fixture, before the shower head, to allow any pressure to be relieved in the hose. If you turn off only the hose end valve, the weep hole will continue to leak as designed until the mixing valve is also closed. The weep hole also drips for a while as pressure is slowly relieved even when the mixing valve is closed, but usually stops after a short while since no more water is admitted to the hose.
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yudamann
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08/06/08 03:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Question re Operating System, Browser, and Connection
Windows XP home sp3
Firefox 3
DSL
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yudamann
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08/01/08 06:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: One roof-top plumbing vent, two holding tanks
Plumbing codes allow the use of a single vent stack through the roof as long as the single vent is sized properly, which is safe to assume that it is since there are not a lot of fixtures inside an RV. But, each tank must be vented through the roof, whether individually or joined to a common stack through the roof. The device mentioned by other posters on the kitchen and lavatory drains is an air admittance valve, AAV. It is not an emergency valve or vent. It is designed to be used where it would be difficult to route a vent pipe from just downstream of the fixture trap that it serves to the vent through the roof. It is a one-way valve, or check valve that admits air into the drain line when a plumbing fixture downstream of the AAV has waste flowing. The admittance of air at this point protects the adjacent fixture trap from being siphoned away due to this flow. The loss of a trap seal often leads to foul odors coming up from the tank through the fixture drain. Plumbing codes do not allow for the AAV to be used at every trap in the system without any through-roof vent; there must be at least one vent that goes through the roof.
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yudamann
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07/31/08 06:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Counteract brand tire bead wheel balancing
Thanks for the replies guys. Did these beads stop a vibration problem that you had before using them?
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yudamann
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07/27/08 11:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Counteract brand tire bead wheel balancing
I would appreciate comments from those who have tried this method of RV wheel balancing.
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yudamann
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07/27/08 07:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Campgrounds in western Virginia?
Claytor Lake state park near Christiansburg off of I-81 is lovely. 35 ft. limit on rigs here.
Smith Mountain Lake state park east of Roanoke is also nice, but too many trees for satellite here.
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yudamann
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07/19/08 06:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Gray tank oders?
The item is not a vacuum breaker, but an air admittance valve. They are fairly cheap, about $10 from any hardware or big box store and easily replaced since they screw in place. Check to make sure that you have water in your traps also; pour a couple of cups down the drain to seal the p-traps.
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yudamann
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07/09/08 08:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: fuel/water seperator
Some separators do not have a see-through bowl so you don't know if you have water until you drain some fuel. Checking after filling your tank tells you what was in your last tank of fuel, not what you just loaded since the new fuel hasn't passed through the separator yet. As Sully said, DON'T drain a lot! An ounce +/- is enough. If you drain too much, you introduce air into the filter and you can't start the engine.
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yudamann
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06/11/08 07:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Plumbing question
For the trap, it does not matter whether you replace with black ABS or white PVC. If the trap is threaded, the threads are the same for either material. If the trap is to be glued, your hardware store probably has the glue and cleaning solvent made for gluing PVC to ABS; this is NOT regular ABS or regular PVC glue.
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yudamann
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06/10/08 09:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Keeping batteries charged again
If your solar charger is connected directly to your battery terminals, turning off any "downstream" breaker or switch will not keep your solar charger from charging your batteries. To check the output voltage of your charger, disconnect it from the batteries and use a multimeter to check the voltage from the charger output cables. Solar chargers should have output voltage between 14 and 18 volts DC if they are in direct sunlight doing their job.
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yudamann
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06/06/08 08:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Phoenix Area Storage
Eagle View RV Resort is east of Fountain Hills, Indian reservation, casino. Nice RV park w/ outside storage also at reduced rate from park rate. Quite a ways from Sky Harbor, but there is a nice Marriott Hotel on the property that you may be able to use their airport shuttle service. http://www.eagleviewrvresort.com/
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yudamann
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05/30/08 07:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Featherlite Vantare, and La Mesa
Our dealings with LaMesa in Mesa AZ was much more pleasant than our first motor home purchase at another dealership. The service manager and PDI tech were super. As with any such purchase, do not believe all that the sales person says. Have it all verified by the service manager as to what has and will be done for you prior to purchase. Do your homework. Prepare a detailed PDI checklist. You can PM me and I will send you mine. Allow at least 4-5 hours for the PDI. Schedule it early in the morning when you have all day if something comes up. Operate ALL equipment during the PDI, even the heater in summer conditions. Crawl under it, go on the roof, get dirty inside the engine compartment. You get the picture. My experience with the Mesa distributorship may not be the same as with anyone using the CA outlet, of course. They sell a lot of coaches. They could not stay in business if their performance was consistently as presented by some posters in this forum and elsewhere. As with any opinion based topic, much more negative things are initially posted than positive, so factor that in.
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yudamann
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05/28/08 07:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: XM Radio Antennae
My first XM antenna was the small one that comes with the receiver that is magnetic and made for attaching to steel vehicle roofs. Obviously this attachment method does not work for RV's, so I just used a small dab of Plumber's Goop to adhere it to the roof near the driver side slide. I ran the thin wire down and through the slide flap seal and enclosed inside of surface mounted conduit to conceal it. Worked fine. I later improved it by mounting a marine XM antenna attached to the mounting bracket of the air horns on the roof. The marine bracket is a swivel type that can also be mounted on vertical surfaces such as the side of the RV near the slide.
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yudamann
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05/28/08 07:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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